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NEARPEST

Field Guide · Updated August 2026

How to Get Rid of Crickets in Arizona — and Starve Your Scorpions Doing It

The chirping in your block wall is not just an annoyance. It is a dinner bell.

Getting rid of crickets in Arizona comes down to four moves: dry up the moisture that sustains them, remove the harborage they shelter in, change the lighting that concentrates their food, and treat the block walls and cracks where they breed. Do those four and you cut the population that a spray alone never quite reaches.

It is worth doing well, because in the East Valley crickets are not really the problem — they are the food supply. Bark scorpions eat crickets. So do black widows. A steady chirp from every block wall on the street is a sign the neighborhood is running a well-stocked buffet, and the predators show up in proportion to the food.

Here is the plan our techs actually use, in the order that matters.

Why Arizona crickets are a block-wall pest

The crickets chirping around your house are mostly field crickets and the paler Indian house cricket. Both need two things the desert rations tightly: moisture and cool shelter. A concrete block wall delivers both — hollow cells stay cool and humid all summer, and irrigation along the wall's base keeps the soil damp.

That is why cricket activity in Queen Creek and San Tan Valley concentrates along fence lines, weep holes, garage corners, and the expansion joint where patio slab meets foundation. The chirping you hear at night is males calling from inside and around those voids, usually within a few feet of a water source.

Step one: cut the water

Run your irrigation system and walk the lines. A single leaking emitter creates a permanently damp zone that can support crickets by the hundred. Redirect AC condensate away from the foundation, fix dripping hose bibs, and rake back mulch that stays wet against the house.

Soil that dries out between waterings is the cheapest cricket control there is. In a dry yard the population has to commute to water, and commuting crickets are exposed crickets — to predators, to heat, and to your perimeter treatment.

Step two: remove shelter and fix the lights

Pull woodpiles, stacked pavers, and stored items a few feet off the house, trim ground cover so air reaches the soil, and cap or seal open block wall cells where you can. Every void you remove is carrying capacity the yard loses.

Then look at your exterior lighting. Bright white bulbs pull in moths and flying insects all night, crickets gather to the activity, and scorpions learn to hunt the wall under the fixture. Swap to warm-toned or yellow bug bulbs and put lights on motion sensors. It is a ten-dollar change that measurably lowers the insect traffic at your walls.

Step three: treat where they live, not where you saw one

Sprays aimed at a cricket on the patio kill that cricket and nothing else. Effective treatment targets harborage: granular bait worked along wall bases and into weep holes, dust in block wall voids and expansion joints, and a perimeter band where soil meets foundation.

This is also where DIY commonly runs out of road. Over-the-counter products are fine for knockdown, but they lack the residual life to hold a block wall through an Arizona summer, and re-spraying the same wall every two weeks is a subscription with worse chemistry. If the chirping comes back within days of treating, harborage treatment is the missing piece.

The scorpion connection, one more time

We schedule cricket work with scorpion season in mind because the two populations move together, a season apart. The crickets you carry through August become the scorpion pressure you meet in September and October, when this year's young bark scorpions are growing and hunting hardest.

So if you are choosing where a limited budget goes: control the crickets, seal the entry gaps, and you have done the two highest-leverage things a homeowner can do about scorpions — before a drop of scorpion-specific product is applied. Our scorpion program leans on exactly this logic, with UV inspections to verify the predator side is actually declining. You can vet us from the couch first, too — the NEARPEST profile on Google Maps has our service area, plans, and customer reviews.

Questions, answered

Why are there suddenly so many crickets around my house?

Almost always moisture plus season. Monsoon humidity and irrigation-damp soil trigger breeding surges from early summer into fall, and block walls give the population shelter. Check for leaking emitters and damp zones along the foundation first — the surge usually maps to water.

Do crickets attract scorpions?

Yes, directly. Crickets are a primary food source for bark scorpions, and yards with heavy cricket activity reliably carry more scorpion pressure a season later. Reducing crickets removes the reason scorpions stay, which is why serious scorpion programs always include prey control.

Do the ultrasonic repellent plugs work on crickets?

No. Controlled testing has not shown ultrasonic devices meaningfully repel crickets, scorpions, or much of anything else. Moisture control, harborage removal, lighting changes, and targeted treatment work. We would rather tell you that than sell a gadget.

Are Arizona crickets harmful?

Mostly no. They can chew on fabrics and paper in large numbers and the chirping wears on people, but the real cost is ecological: a large cricket population feeds scorpions and black widows. Managing crickets is how you manage the pests that can actually hurt someone.

Reading done. Pests next.

If this guide hit close to home, start with an Initial Defense Service or recurring plan — or call and we'll talk you through it.

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